Spain's Amazing Basque Country: History, Surfing, and Pintxos Walks
- Canyon and Compass Travel
- Aug 1
- 6 min read
Officially called the Basque Autonomous Community or Euskadi in northern Spain, it is one of Spain’s 17 autonomous communities and the political heartland of the Basque people with Bilbao as the largest city. And, like the rugged green mountains that cradle the Bay of Biscay—steadfast, ancient, and crafted by centuries of wind and water—the Basques guard their culture with equal rigidity. The Basque Country feels like a world apart and the truth is, it is: a land where language, tradition, and identity have stood against almost every ebb and flow of history.
That sense of separateness shapes everything one encounters, from the rhythm of daily life to the traditions that anchor its towns. Basque jealously guards its language, independence, and some of Europe’s most inventive cuisine. It is a fascinating blend. Historic churches rest beside lively plazas; colorful fishing villages continue customs passed down through generations. Cities like Basurto and Plentzia showcase the dramatic sweep of the Bay of Biscay while also offering existential experiences like the Pintxos Walk: It isn’t just bar‑hopping, in Basque Country it’s a ritual of belonging — a slow, communal movement through streets where language, identity, and tradition have survived for centuries.
Centered on the Spanish provinces of Biscay, Gipuzkoa, and Álava, the Basques form one of Europe’s most ancient and continuous peoples, distinguished by a unique language and deep cultural roots that predate Indo‑European settlement. Their language, Euskara, is a linguistic isolate—completely unrelated to Spanish, French, or other Indo-European tongues—likely predates the arrival of those language groups. Over the centuries the Basques resisted successive waves of outsiders: Visigoths, Franks, Normans, and at times the Moors.
And no place symbolizes Basque culture (and mindset) more than the city of Gernika. Tucked into the green folds of Basque Country, this small town has long been a symbol of Basque identity thanks to the ancient Tree of Gernika where leaders once gathered to swear oaths of local rights and autonomy. Yet it was a single, devastating, day — April 26, 1937 —that shocked the world and changed Basque culture forever when the town was all but annihilated from relentless bombings by Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy. The attack, one of the earliest large‑scale bombings of a civilian population later transformed the town into a global symbol for peace through the Gernika Tree of Life. It also inspired painter Pablo Picasso’s stark masterpiece Guernica.
Today Basque Country enjoys substantial autonomy within Spain, with its own parliament, police, and official recognition of Euskara. The region’s identity remains strong—visible in everything from rural caseríos (farmhouses) to urban pride and a culture that values community, resilience, and excellent food.
Basurto and Bilbao
Basurto (Basurtu) forms part of Bilbao’s Basurto-Zorroza district, a working, lived-in area rather than a polished tourist showpiece. Historically tied to the anteiglesia of Abando, it has medieval roots linked to local lineages and later developed around religious sites such as the old hermitage of San Mamés (donated in the 15th century and associated with Franciscans). The neighborhood sits near the Nervión river and serves as an important entry point to the city.
Today Basurto is best known for the modern San Mamés Stadium (home of Athletic Club Bilbao, a club with a strong Basque identity), the Hospital de Basurto, the Bilbao Intermodal transport hub, and a very lively local life. The area has undergone major urban improvements—reclaiming space from traffic for pedestrians and green areas. It’s a good place to feel everyday Bilbao: residential streets, practical amenities, and easy metro or rail connections. From here there is easy access to the Casco Viejo (old town) for sightseeing or the coast.
Bilbao is a short ride or walk from Basurto and brings you from an everyday neighborhood into an industrial heritage, bold architecture, and Basque culture. For most is the UNESCO-listed Vizcaya (Bizkaia) transporter bridge near Bilbao, and the Guggenheim Museum, a world-renowned modern and contemporary art museum designed by architect Frank Gehry.
Famous for its sweeping titanium curves and dramatic riverside setting, the museum opened in 1997 and quickly became one of the world’s most celebrated works of contemporary architecture. Inside, rotating exhibitions, monumental installations such as Richard Serra’s The Matter of Time, and a soaring atrium filled with natural light make it a standout stop. Outside, sculptures such as Jeff Koons’ Puppy and Louise Bourgeois’ Maman make the museum’s exterior just as compelling as its galleries.
Bilbao’s historic quarter is Casco Viejo, a lively maze of medieval streets known as the Siete Calles (Seven Streets). This is where the city began over 700 years ago, and today it remains the beating heart of local life. The area is filled with Gothic churches, traditional markets like Mercado de la Ribera, pintxos bars, artisan shops, and plazas lined with cafés. Walking Casco Viejo offers an authentic look at Bilbao’s past and present—quiet alleys, bustling squares, and centuries‑old architecture woven into a vibrant neighborhood.
Plentzia: Coastal Charm on the Bay
About 25 km northeast of Bilbao and reachable as the terminus of Metro Line 1, Plentzia is a quaint seaside town of roughly 4,400 residents that swells in summer. It only takes a short visit to understand why: It is absolutely charming. The real draw is the sheltered, shell-shaped bay shared with nearby Gorliz and Barrika, a popular sandy beach at the mouth of the estuary, a small port (La Gallarda), and a scenic footbridge linking the metro station to the old town.
It’s relaxed, walkable, and ideal for a day trip—swim or stroll the beach, wander the old quarter, enjoy fresh seafood, or explore nearby geological features and coastal paths. Plentzia captures the gentler, resort side of the Biscay coast while retaining authentic Basque maritime character. Founded as a villa in the 13th century (privileges granted around 1236 and formalized in 1299 by Diego López de Haro as Plasencia de Butrón), it grew around maritime trade, coastal shipping, shipbuilding, and early whale hunting rather than pure deep-sea fishing.
The historic core of the town still shows its medieval layout of parallel streets and cross alleys, with a mix of sailors’ houses, (later bourgeois residences), the Church of Santa María Magdalena (whose tower once served as a lookout), remnants of walls, and a tower-house that now houses a local history museum.
The Bay of Biscay and the Basque Coast
The Bay of Biscay (Golfo de Vizcaya / Bizkaiko Golkoa) forms the dramatic northern edge of the region. Atlantic swells smash headlong into cliffs, carve coves and, best of all, create excellent surfing beaches, while the oceanic climate keeps the hinterland lush and green. This area is one of Europe’s great surfing regions, and the stretch of coast near Gernika offers some of the best waves on the Bay of Biscay.
Elsewhere classic coastal highlights the flysch rock formations, fishing towns such as Bermeo and Lekeitio, the islet and hermitage of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (famous from Game of Thrones), and longer strands like those around Sopela or Zarautz. Boat trips, cliff walks, and sunset viewpoints at places like Cape Matxitxako reward exploration. The coast feels wilder and less crowded than Mediterranean Spain or France, with a mix of rugged nature, mythology-tinged hills inland, and lively port life.
A Culinary Adventure: The Pintxos Walk
Basque food is a high art, and the everyday expression of it is the pintxo (the local, enhanced take on tapas—small, often elaborate bites usually speared with a toothpick). A proper pintxos walk (poteo) is social, progressive, and best done standing at the bar: order one or two items plus a small glass of txakoli (the lightly sparkling local white wine, traditionally poured from a height), or a zurito of beer (served in small glasses), pay, move on, repeat.
How to master the art of the pintxos walk? Casco Viejo’s Siete Calles and Plaza Nueva, two of the most defining landmarks of Bilbao’s Old Town, each representing a different layer of the city’s history and daily life. Look for classics like the Gilda (olive, anchovy, pepper), bacalao preparations, grilled meats or seafood, creative seasonal creations, and Basque cheesecake. Quality is consistently high—many bars treat each pintxo as a miniature work of craft. Pair with cider, Rioja Alavesa reds, or local beers, and let the evening unfold at a relaxed Basque pace. Popular favorites include:
Grilled octopus
Jamón Ibérico
Garlic shrimp
Salt cod croquettes
Anchovies with roasted peppers
Basque cheesecake
Fresh seafood caught that very morning
In Summary
Exploring Euskadi is best done slowly. A sample itinerary might start with a morning in Bilbao, at the Guggenheim Museum then followed by a day exploring the Old Town and area. On day two go to Basurto and its local nightlife. From there, take the metro to Plentzia for beach time on the bay, or head out for coastal drives and hikes along the Bay of Biscay.
However you choose to explore, you’ll find a corner of Europe with a character all its own—ancient language, proud traditions, and a lively independent spirit woven into everyday life. The region offers an inviting mix of old-world heritage and bold modern culture. We absolutely loved our time there and we think you will too! Ongi etorri—welcome!
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